The Nature Island: Dominica (The Moreish Podcast)

Exploring the Caribbean island of Dominica: From the Kalinago roots to present day culture and cuisine.

Despite being a gem in the Caribbean, Dominica isn’t a top-of-mind vacation spot for North Americans looking for a tropical getaway. It’s often described as an exotic island with lush rainforests, volcanic peaks, hot springs, and some of the Caribbean’s best-kept secrets, including luxury accommodations. Known as the Nature Island of the Caribbean, Dominica even boasts a boiling lake—one of only three in the world!

A brief history of Dominica

Dominica, originally named Waitakabuli, was re-named by Christopher Columbus. The Indigenous Arawak people inhabited the island before the Kalinago, previously referred to as Caribs, took over around the 14th century. Columbus and his crew landed on November 3, 1493, naming the island Dominica because it was a Sunday (Domingo means Sunday in Latin). The Kalinago, however, were fierce defenders of their territory, driving off Columbus and many subsequent attempts at colonization.

In 2015 the Indigenous peoples’ name was officially changed back to Kalinago from Carib, though you may see both being used, depending on the source, when speaking about Dominica.

The British and French both made numerous attempts to control the island, leading to a back-and-forth struggle. By 1763, after the Seven Years War, Dominica was ceded to Great Britain, though the French attempted several times to recapture it, with the final attempt being in 1805.

A remarkable legislative journey

In 1763, the British established a legislative assembly, initially representing only white people. However, Dominica saw a significant shift in 1835 when three men of African descent were elected to the Legislative Assembly, becoming the only British colony to have a legislature controlled by Black people of African descent shortly after the abolition of slavery in 1833. This was a milestone not only for Dominica but for the history of the British colonies.

Population of Dominica

The population is approximately 74,600, with a mix of about 85% Black of African descent, 9% mixed heritage, 3.7% Indigenous (Kalinago), and 1.3% white. Dominica is unique among Caribbean islands for having a notable, present-day Indigenous Kalinago population of about 3,500 people.

Dominica’s cultural landscape is a vibrant tapestry woven from British, French, Indigenous, and African influences. The country transitioned from being part of the British Leeward Islands in 1871 to the British Windward Islands, reflecting the north-south split in colonial administration.

Through Trans-Atlantic Slave Trade many people of African descent were forcibly taken to the island, which left an indelible mark on the culture. Dominica saw around 117,000 enslaved Africans disembark on its shores between 1751 and 1850. These individuals and their descendants have shaped the island’s cultural and social landscape.

Cultural Influences, Heritage and Celebrations

Dominica shines during its Independence season, a month-long celebration showcasing food, music, dance, and culture. It’s a time when the entire island comes alive with steel band competitions, heritage days, and the World Creole Music Festival. Creole Day, in particular, is a colorful spectacle where people don the traditional Wob Dwiyet—vibrant plaid cloth mixed with white cotton lace, a nod to both their French and African heritage.

Dominica honours the Kalinago people with Kalinago Week in September, and celebrates their French and African roots with Mas Dominik, a Carnival full of life and history.

A Foray into Dominican Cuisine

Dominican cuisine showcases the ingenuity of its people, finding delicious ways to prepare the resources available to them. From breadfruit puffs to coconut bread pudding, the dishes are as rich and diverse as the island’s history.

The national dish of Dominica

The island’s national dish, Callaloo Soup, shares roots with similar dishes across the African diaspora. There are many Caribbean countries with their own version of Callaloo using hearty leafy greens such as dasheen (taro) or tannia.

Historically, Mountain Chicken (also called crapaud) was the national dish. Not actually chicken, this giant ditch frog is an example of the ingenuity of the people, taking advantage of what’s available in its local waters. A fungus nearly wiped them out and hunting these frogs is now illegal.

Mountain chicken used to be stewed in coconut milk with herbs, spices and aromatics similar to an oil down or run down.